Buc'hoz Pierre-Joseph
The Toilet of Flora
ADVERTISEMENT
The chief Intention of this Performance is to point out, and explain to the Fair Sex, the Methods by which they may preserve and add to their Charms; and by which many natural Blemishes and Imperfections may be remedied or concealed. The same Share of Grace and Attractions is not possessed by all of them; but while the Improvement of their Persons is the indispensable Duty of those who have been little favoured by Nature, it should not be neglected even by the few who have received the largest Proportion of her Gifts. The same Art which will communicate to the former the Power of pleasing, will enable the latter to extend the Empire of their Beauty. It is possible to remove, or, at least, to cover the Defects of the one Class, and to give Force and Lustre to the Perfections of the other.
The Author, however, though in general he has framed his Work for the Advantage of the Ladies, has not entirely confined it to them. The Virtues of Plants and Vegetables, beside the Service they furnish for the Toilet, have their Use in Articles of Luxury. He has thence been induced to address himself also to the Perfumer: and his Publication, he flatters himself, while it comprizes a very perfect Collection of the Methods which tend to improve Beauty, to repair the Wastes of Fatigue, and to avert the Marks of Age or Decline, includes likewise a full Account of whatever relates to domestic Oeconomy and Expence.
Uncommon Pains have been taken to improve the present Edition, which contains a System of the Cosmetic Art, infinitely superior to any that has hitherto appeared; and it has likewise uniformly rendered the various Prescriptions not only compatible with, but subservient to, the Preservation, and even the Improvement of Health; an Object of the greatest Importance in a Work of this Kind.
THE
TOILET
OF
FLORA
No. 1. An Aromatic Bath
Boil, for the space of two or three minutes, in a sufficient quantity of river-water, one or more of the following plants; viz. Laurel, Thyme, Rosemary, Wild Thyme, Sweet-Marjoram, Bastard-Marjoram, Lavender, Southernwood, Wormwood, Sage, Pennyroyal, Sweet-Basil Balm, Wild Mint, Hyssop, Clove-july-flowers, Anise, Fennel, or any other herbs that have an agreeable scent. Having strained off the liquor from the herbs, add to it a little Brandy, or camphorated Spirits of Wine.
This is an excellent bath to strengthen the limbs; it removes pains proceeding from cold, and promotes perspiration.
2. A Cosmetic Bath
Take two pounds of Barley or Bean-meal, eight pounds of Bran, and a few handfuls of Borrage Leaves. Boil these ingredients in a sufficient quantity of spring water. Nothing cleanses and softens the skin like this bath.
3. An Emollient Bath for the Feet
Boil, in water, a pound of Bran, with a few Marsh-mallow Roots, and two or three handfuls of Mallow Leaves.
4. An Aromatic Bath for the Feet
Take four handfuls of Pennyroyal, Sage, and Rosemary, three handfuls of Angelica, and four ounces of Juniper Berries; boil these ingredients in a sufficient quantity of water, and strain off the liquor for use.
5. An excellent Preservative Balsam against the Plague
Scrape fine twelve Scorzonera and Goatsbread Roots; simmer them over a gentle fire in three quarts of Lisbon or French White Wine, in a vessel closely covered, to prevent the too great evaporation of the vinous spirit. When the roots are sufficiently boiled, strain off the liquor through a linen strainer with a gentle pressure: then add to it the Juice of twelve Lemons, with Cloves, Ginger, Cardamom Seeds, and Aloes Wood, grossly powdered, of each half an ounce; and about one ounce of each of the following herbs, viz. fresh Leaves of Rue, Elder, Bramble, and Sage; boil all together over a gentle fire, till one quart is wasted away; strain the liquor off immediately through a strong linen bag, and keep it in an earthen or glass vessel close stopped. Drink every morning fasting, for nine days together, half a pint of this Balsam, by which means you will be able to resist the malignancy of the Atmosphere, though you even visit infected persons. The same end may be promoted by washing the mouth and nostrils with Vinegar; and by holding to the nose a bit of Camphire, slightly wrapped in muslin; or by frequently chewing a piece of Gum Myrrh.
6. An excellent Cosmetic for the Face
Take a pound of levigated Hartshorn, two pounds of Rice Powder, half a pound of Ceruss, Powder of dried Bones, Frankincense, Gum Mastic, and Gum Arabic, of each two ounces. Dissolve the whole in a sufficient quantity of Rose-water, and wash the face with this fluid.
7. A curious Perfume
Boil, in two quarts of Rose-water, an ounce of Storax, and two ounces of Gum Benjamin; to which add, tied up in a piece of gauze or thin muslin, six Cloves bruised, half a drachm of Labdanum, as much Calamus Aromaticus, and a little Lemon-peel. Cover the vessel up close, and keep the ingredients boiling a great while: strain off the liquor without strong pressure, and let it stand till it deposit the sediment, which keep for use in a box.
8. Perfumed Chaplets and Medals
Take Marechal Powder, and make it into a paste with Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth and Arabic, prepared with All-flower-water (the receipt for which is contained in this book.) The mould into which it is put must be rubbed with a little Essence of Jassmine, or of any other sweet-scented herb, to prevent the Paste from sticking. This Paste in colour resembles Coffee.
9. Receipt to thicken the Hair, and make it grow on a bald part
Take Roots of a Maiden Vine, Roots of Hemp, and Cores of soft Cabbages, of each two handfuls; dry and burn them; afterwards make a lye with the ashes. The head is to be washed with this lye three days successively, the part having been previously well rubbed with Honey.
10. An approved Depilatory, or a Fluid for taking off the Hair
Take Polypody of the Oak, cut into very small pieces; put them into a glass vessel, and pour on them as much Lisbon, or French White Wine, as will rise about an inch above the ingredients: digest in balneo Mariæ (or a bath of hot water) for twenty-four hours; then distil off the liquor by the heat of boiling water, till the whole has come over the helm. A linen cloth wetted with this fluid, may be applied to the part on which the hair grows, and kept on it all night; repeating the application periodically till the hair falls off.
The distilled water of the Leaves and Roots of Celandine, applied in the same manner, has the like effect.
11. A Powder to prevent Baldness
Powder your head with powdered Parsley Seed, at night, once in three or four months, and the hair will never fall off.
12. To quicken the Growth of Hair
Dip the teeth of your comb every morning in the expressed Juice of Nettles, and comb the hair the wrong way. This expedient will surprisingly quicken the growth of the hair.
Some, after having shaved the head, foment it with a decoction of Wormwood, Southernwood, Sage, Betony, Vervain, Marjoram, Myrtle, Roses, Dill, Rosemary, or Misletoe.
13. A compound Oil for the same Intention
Take half a pound of green Southernwood bruised, boil it in a pint and a half of Sweet Oil, and half a pint of Red Wine; when sufficiently boiled, remove it from the fire, and strain off the liquor through a linen bag: repeat this operation three times with fresh Southernwood. The last time add to the strained liquor two ounces of Bears-grease.
This oil quickly makes the hair shoot out.
14. A Fluid to make the Hair grow
Take the tops of Hemp as soon as the plant begins to appear above ground, and infuse them four and twenty hours in water. Dip the teeth of the comb in this fluid, and it will certainly quicken the growth of the hair.
15. A Liniment of the same Kind
Take six drachms of Labdanum, two ounces of Bears-grease, half an ounce of Honey, three drachms of powdered Southernwood, a drachm and a half of Ashes of Calamus Aromaticus Roots, three drachms of Balsam of Peru, and a little Oil of Sweet Almonds. Mix into a liniment.
16. To change the Colour of the Hair
First wash your head with spring-water, then dip your comb in Oil of Tartar, and comb yourself in the Sun: repeat this operation three times a day, and at the end of eight days at most the hair will turn black. If you are desirous of giving the hair a fine scent, moisten it with Oil of Benjamin.
17. Simple Means of producing the same Effect
The Leaves of the Wild Vine change the hairs black, and prevent their falling off. Burnt Cork; Roots of the Holm-oak, and Caper-tree; Barks of Willow, Walnut-tree and Pomegranate; Leaves of Artichoaks, the Mulberry-tree, Fig-tree, Rasberry-bush Shells of Beans; Gall and Cypress-nuts; Leaves of Myrtle; green Shells of Walnuts; Ivy-berries, Cockle, and red Beet-seeds, Poppy-flowers, Alum, and most preparations of Lead. These ingredients may be boiled in Rain-water, Wine or Vinegar, with the addition of some cephalic Plant, as Sage, Marjoram, Balm, Betony, Clove-july-flowers, Laurel, &c. &c.
18. To change the Hair or Beard black
Take Oil of Costus and Myrtle, of each an ounce and a half; mix them well in a leaden mortar; adding liquid Pitch, expressed Juice of Walnut Leaves and Laudanum, of each half an ounce; Gall-nuts, Black-lead, and Frankincense, of each a drachm; and a sufficient quantity of Mucilage of Gum Arabic made with a decoction of Gall Nuts.
Rub the head and chin with this mixture, after they have been shaved.
19. A Fluid to die the Hair of a flaxen Colour
Take a quart of Lye prepared from the Ashes of Vine Twigs; Briony, Celandine Roots, and Turmeric, of each half an ounce; Saffron and Lily Roots, of each two drachms; Flowers of Mullein, Yellow Stechas, Broom, and St. John's-wort, of each a drachm; boil these ingredients together, and strain off the Liquor clear.
Frequently wash the hair with this fluid, and in a little time it will change to a beautiful flaxen colour.
20. A perfumed Basket
Place a layer of perfumed Cotton extremely thin and even on a piece of Taffety stretched in a frame; strew on it some Violet Powder, and then some Cypress Powder; cover the whole with another piece of Taffety: nothing more remains to complete the work, but to quilt it, and cut it of the size of the basket, trimming the edges with ribband.
21. Natural Cosmetics
The Juice that issues from the Birch-Tree, when wounded with an auger in spring, is detersive and excellent to clear the complexion: the same virtue is attributed to its distilled water. Some people recommend Strawberry-water; others the decoction of Orpiment, and some Frog-spawn-water.
22. A remedy for Corns on the Feet
Roast a Clove of Garlic, or an Onion, on a live coal or in hot ashes; apply it to the corn, and fasten it on with a piece of cloth. This softens the corn to such a degree, as to loosen and wholly remove it in two or three days. Foment the corn every other night in warm water, after which renew the application.
The same intention will be yet more effectually answered by applying to the corn a bit of the plaster of Diachylon with the Gums, spread on a small piece of linen; removing it occasionally to foment the corn with warm water, and pare off the softened part with a penknife.
23. A Coral Stick for the Teeth
Make a stiff Paste with Tooth Powder and a sufficient quantity of Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth: form with this Paste little cylindrical Rollers, the thickness of a large goose quill, and about three inches in length. Dry them in the shade. The method of using this stick is to rub it against the teeth, which become cleaner in proportion as it wastes.
24. A receipt to clean the Teeth and Gums, and make the Flesh grow close to the Root of the Enamel
Take an ounce of Myrrh in fine powder, two spoonfuls of the best white Honey, and a little green Sage in fine powder; mix them well together, and rub the teeth and gums with a little of this Balsam every night and morning.
25. Ditto, to strengthen the Gums and fasten loose Teeth
Dissolve an ounce of Myrrh as much as possible in half a pint of Red Wine and the same quantity of Oil of Almonds: Wash the mouth with this fluid every morning.
This is also an excellent remedy against worms in the teeth.
26. Another
Dissolve a drachm of Cachoe (an Indian perfume) in a quart of Red Wine, and use it for washing the mouth.
27. Or rather
Bruise Tobacco Roots in a mortar, and rub the teeth and gums with a linen cloth dipped in the Juice. You may also put some Tobacco bruised between the fingers into the hollow of the tooth. Or take the green Leaves of a Plum-tree, or of Rosemary, and boil them in Lees of Wine or Vinegar; gargle the mouth with the Wine as hot as you can bear it, and repeat it frequently.
28. For rotten Teeth
Make a balsam with a sufficient quantity of Honey, two scruples of Myrrh in fine powder, a scruple of Gum Juniper, and ten grains of Roch Alum. Frequently apply this mixture to the decayed tooth.
29. A liquid Remedy for decayed Teeth
Take a pint of the Juice of the Wild Gourd, a quarter of a pound of Mulberry Bark, and Pellitory of Spain, each three ounces; Roch Alum, Sal Gem, and Borax, of each half an ounce. Put these ingredients into a glass vessel, and distill in a sand heat to dryness; take of this liquor and Brandy, each an equal part, and wash the mouth with them warm. This mixture removes all putridity, and cleanses away dead flesh.
30. A Powder to clean the Teeth
Take Dragon's Blood and Cinnamon, of each one ounce and a half, Burnt Alum, or Cream of Tartar, one ounce; beat all together into a very fine powder, and rub a little on the teeth every other day.
31. A Remedy for sore Gums and loose Teeth
Boil Oak Leaves in spring-water, and add to the decoction a few drops of Spirit of Sulphur. Gargle the mouth with a little of this liquor every morning while necessary.
32. An approved Receipt against that troublesome Complaint, called the Teeth set on Edge
Purslain, Sorrel, Sweet or Bitter Almonds, Walnuts, or burnt Bread, chewed, will certainly remove this disagreeable sensation.
33. A Liquid for cleansing the Teeth
Take Lemon Juice, two ounces, Burnt Alum and Salt, of each six grains; boil them together about a minute in a glazed pipkin, and then strain through a linen cloth. The method of application is to wrap a bit of clean rag round the end of a stick, dipping it in the Liquid, and rub it gently against the teeth. You must be careful not to have too much of the Liquid on the rag, for fear it should excoriate the gums or inside of the mouth. This application ought not to be used above once every two or three months.
34. A sure Preservative from the Tooth Ache, and Defluxions on the Gums or Teeth
After having washed your mouth with water, as cleanliness and indeed health requires, you should every morning rince the mouth with a tea spoonful of Lavender-Water mixed with an equal quantity of warm or cold water, whichever you like best, to diminish its activity. This simple and innocent remedy is a certain preservative, the success of which has been confirmed by long experience.
35. A Method to make the Teeth beautifully white
Take Gum Tragacanth, one ounce; Pumice-stone, two drachms; Gum Arabic, half an ounce; and Crystals of Tartar, finely powdered, one ounce; dissolve the Gums in Rose-water, and adding to it the powder, form the whole into little sticks, which are to be dried slowly in the shade, and afterwards kept for use.
36. Or,
Take dried Leaves of Hyssop, Wild Thyme, and Mint, of each half an ounce; Roch Alum, prepared Hartshorn, and Salt, of each a drachm; calcine these ingredients together in a pot placed on burning coals; when sufficiently calcined, add of Pepper and Mastic, each half a drachm, and of Myrrh a scruple; reduce the whole into a fine powder, and make them into a proper consistence with Storax dissolved in Rose-water. Rub the teeth with a small bit of this Mixture every morning, and afterwards wash the mouth with warm Wine.
37. Or,
Dip a piece of clean rag in Vinegar of Squills, and rub the teeth and gums with it. This not only whitens, but fastens and strengthens the roots of the teeth, and corrects an offensive breath.
38. Or,
Take Rose-water, Syrup of Violets, clarified Honey, and Plantain-water, of each half an ounce; Spirit of Vitriol one ounce; mix them together. Rub the teeth with a linen rag moistened in this Liquor, and then rince the mouth with equal parts of Rose and Plantain-water.
39. Or,
Rub them well with Nettle or Tobacco Ashes, or rather with Vine Ashes mixed with a little Honey.
40. A Powder to cleanse the Teeth
Take prepared Coral and Dragons-blood, of each an ounce; Cinnamon and Cloves, of each six drachms; Cuttle-bone, and calcined Egg-shells, of each half an ounce; Sea Salt decrepitated, a drachm, all in fine powder: mix them in a marble mortar.
41. The following was communicated by Mr. Rae, Surgeon Dentist, in the Adelphi, London
Take of Cuttlefish-bone, and the finest prepared Chalk, each half an ounce; Peruvian Bark, and Florentine Iris Root, each two drachms: reduce the whole into a fine Powder, and mix them. This may be coloured with a little Rose Pink, and scented with a few drops of Oil of Cinnamon.
42. Or,
Take Pumice-stone prepared, Sealed Earth, and Red Coral prepared, of each an ounce; Dragons-blood, half an ounce; Cream of Tartar, an ounce and a half; Cinnamon, a quarter of an ounce; and Cloves, a scruple: beat the whole together into a Powder.
This Powder serves to cleanse, whiten, and preserve the Teeth; and prevents the accidents that arise from the collection of Tartar or any other foulness about them.
43. An efficacious Tooth-Powder
Take Myrrh, Roch Allum, Dragon's Blood, and Cream of Tartar, of each half an ounce; Musk, two grains; and make them into a very fine powder. This, though simple, is an efficacious dentifrice; but nothing of this kind should be applied too frequently to the teeth for fear of hurting the enamel.
44. A Powder to cleanse the Teeth
Take Pumice-Stone and Cuttle-fish Bone, of each half an ounce; Tartar vitriolated, and Mastich, of each a drachm; Oil of Rhodium four drops: mix all into a fine powder.
45. A Tincture to strengthen the Gums and prevent the Scurvy
Take an ounce of Peruvian Bark grossly powdered, infuse it a fortnight or longer in half a pint of Brandy. Gargle the mouth every night or morning, with a tea spoonful of this Tincture diluted with an equal quantity of Rose-water.
46. Manner of preparing the Roots for cleaning the Teeth, according to Mr. Baumè
The roots that are used to clean the teeth are formed at both ends like little brushes; and in all probability were substituted in the room of Tooth-brushes, on account of their being softer to the gums and more convenient. They are used in the following manner; one of the ends is moistened with a little water, dipped into the Tooth-Powder, and then rubbed against the teeth till they look white. Fibrous and woody Roots are best formed into little brushes, and on this account deserve a preference to others. The Roots are deprived of their juicy parts by boiling them several times in a large quantity of fresh Water. When Lucern Roots are used, those of two years growth are chosen, about the thickness of one's little finger; such as are thicker, unsound or worm-eaten, being rejected. They are cut into pieces about six inches long, and, as we have just observed, are boiled in water till all the juicy parts are extracted. Being then taken out, they are left to drain; after which each end of the roots is slit with a penknife into the form of a little brush, and they are slowly dried to prevent their splitting. In the same manner are prepared Liquorice Roots. Marsh-mallow Roots are prepared in an easier way; but, on account of the mucilage they contain, they become very brittle when dry. Such as are large and very even are made choice of, and rasped with a knife to remove the outer bark. They are dyed red by infusing them in the same dye as is used to colour spunges. When the Roots have remained twenty-four hours in the dye, they are taken out, slowly dried, and varnished with two or three coats of a strong Mucilage of Gum Tragacanth, each being suffered to dry before another is laid on. The whole is afterwards repeatedly anointed with Friars Balsam, in order to form a varnish less susceptible of moisture.
Lucern and Liquorice Roots are dyed and varnished in the same manner: those of Marsh-mallows, from the loss of their Mucilage, considerably diminish in thickness during the time they stand in infusion.