Brigham William Tufts
Baltimore Hats, Past and Present
FASHIONS
No. 12
THE high crown hat, vulgarly termed "stove-pipe," may be taken as the general indicator of fashions existing during the period of the present century. Following the "cocked" hat (the counterpart of the French chapeau), which style prevailed at the time of the American Revolution, was the "steeple top," which had a conical crown. This shape for a high hat was soon abandoned and the bell crown substituted, and so acceptable has this particular style proved that, since the opening of this century, it has held supremacy as the fashionable head-covering for man, despite frequent attempts to destroy its popularity by the introduction of other shapes, or the advocating of a change as practical.
High hats were first napped with beaver fur, which material, being expensive, necessarily made costly hats. Otter fur was afterwards used, then muskrat, which greatly lessened their cost.
"Scratch" or "brush" hats (terms used for hats made with a felt body and afterwards combed or scratched until a nap was raised) were manufactured and worn prior to the middle of the century. These were all stiffened high hats, and constituted the dressy article of headwear until the introduction of the silk hat, which for the last fifty years has maintained its ascendency as the leading article of fashion in gentlemen's hats.
About the year 1830 the beaver hat assumed huge proportions of crown, having a very heavy "bell," measuring full seven inches in height and nine inches across the tip; to this crown was added an insignificant brim of only one and a half inches in width. These hats were covered with a beaver nap of such a length that it waved with the wind, and its appearance upon the head of the wearer was as outre and unique as the "shako" on the head of a modern drum-major.
To more forcibly illustrate the proportions of this style of hat, we may say that its actual capacity was nearly a peck.
Besides the high hats of either beaver, brush or silk, caps made of cloth or fur were much used prior to the introduction of the soft felt hat, and continued to be so until an incident occurred which created a sudden revolution in the tastes of the American people regarding their head-dress.
The visit of Louis Kossuth, the eminent Hungarian patriot, to this country in the year 1851, had the effect of producing a wonderful change in the fashion of hats. The one worn by Kossuth was a high unstiffened black felt trimmed with a wide band, and was ornamented with an ostrich feather. The immense popularity of this famous foreigner with all Americans brought about the fashion of a similar hat. Never before or since in this country did the introduction of a new fashion in hats spread with such rapidity as did the "Kossuth." All hat factories in the country were taxed to their utmost capacity to supply the demand, until every American citizen, old and young, was to be seen wearing a soft hat ornamented with an ostrich plume. It was the "Kossuth" that marked the era of the introduction of the soft or slouch hat, and stimulated the sale of that undress article of headwear, which continued in vogue throughout the United States for a number of years. The soft hat appeared in many forms and styles, some of which became universally popular. The "wide-awake," brought out during the election campaign of Abraham Lincoln, in the year 1860, was a noted and successful style. It was a low crown, white felt, with wide black band and binding.
Robert Bonner's original and successful advertising of his newspaper, the New York Ledger, was a sensation of the day, and the "Ledger" was the name given to a soft hat that commanded a great sale. The peculiarity of the "Ledger" was a narrow leather band and leather binding.
The "resorte" brim was an American invention, introduced about the year 1863; it was simply a wire held to the edge of the brim of a soft hat with a binding, and so extended as to maintain a flatness, and permit its conforming to the head without destroying its outlines. This invention was patented, and its extensive use brought large profits to the owners of the patent.
The event of the Civil War gave an increased stimulus to the use of the soft hat. With the South in a state of excitement, alarmed with portentous fears of a sectional war, such matters as pertained to elegance of dress were banished from the minds of its people, and the North, with a large army recruiting from its citizen class, brought the universal practice of economy among the American people, limiting their indulgence in expenditures for articles of dress considered as luxuries, and the silk hat falling under that ban, dropped almost into absolute disuse. With the return, however, of prosperity, an apparent desire for a more dressy article was manifest, and the stiff felt hat generally denominated the Derby was introduced.
The derby was made in various proportions of crown and brim, as the caprice of fashion dictated, and was, as its name might imply, an adopted English style; it gradually grew in favor with Americans, until it became the universal fashion of the day, maintaining that position for several years. From an increased popularity it has been brought into such common use as to again create a growing desire for an article claiming something bearing a more exclusive mark of gentility or dignity, which the silk hat meets, and the silk hat is again so increasing in use as to establish the certainty of its maintaining with the American people its wonted place of priority as the article of genteel head-dress, marking the standard of fashion and style.
Baltimore, always noted for its readiness in accepting foreign fashions, must have been among the first of American cities to adopt the silk hat, which was claimed to be of French invention, but if there be any foundation for the following narrative, the first silk hat was not made in Paris, but in China. It is stated that a French sea-captain, while sailing on the coast of China, desiring to have his shabby napped beaver hat, which had been made in Paris, replaced by a new one, took it ashore, probably to Calcutta or Canton, to see if he could procure one like it. As Parisian styles were not in vogue in China, he found nothing of closer resemblance than the lacquered papier-mache or bamboo straw. The keen shrewdness of the Chinaman, however, quickly suggested a near imitation in silk-plush. This is said to have happened in 1830, and the captain returning to Paris, showed the Chinaman's product to his own hatter, who, upon perceiving its beauty, at once attempted its introduction as a fashion, which has long ruled nearly the whole world.
The first silk hat produced in Baltimore is said to have been made by one Victor Sarata in 1838, though some contend that Jacob Rogers was the first to make such goods; but as the silk hat was looked upon as an innovation, and its introduction opposed by hat makers of that time, as being detrimental to their interests, it is more than probable that Mr. Rogers did not give encouragement to the manufacture of an article likely to supplant the use of his own make of "Beavers," "Russias" and "Bolivars," and we may thus safely give credit to Victor Sarata for first producing in Baltimore this new article of fashion, originating in Paris, the city from whence he came.
Until the year 1850, Paris fashions were those generally adopted in the leading American cities, after which English fashions in hats entirely superseded the former, becoming so popular that not only large importations of English hats were made, but American manufacturers invariably copied English styles, and indulged in the degrading habit of pirating English trade-marks, for the purpose of increasing their sales. Happily, the necessity for such pernicious practices is at an end, for during the past ten years the great strides made by American manufacturers in the improvements of hat making place them in the foremost rank of that industry; in fact, with those elements of manufacture necessary to perfection, such as fineness of texture, lightness in weight, and elegance in style, American hatters to-day hold supremacy in the whole world, and, favored by relief from the tariff tax upon raw materials from which hats are made, all of which is of foreign growth, America will be found sending to the countries which taught her the art, examples of this industry far superior to those her teachers ever furnished her.
NEW DEVELOPMENTS
No. 13
A STRANGE fact is that the Civil War, so disastrous in its effect upon the industries of Baltimore, was followed at its close by the rise of a new enterprise, of manufacturing straw hats, which so increased and extended that in number of establishments and volume of production it soon outrivalled those of fur hats in their most prosperous time, thus securing to this city a kindred business, greater in extent and importance than the one which had, by force of circumstances, been wrested from her. The good reputation which the products of the new industry has acquired in every part of the country has contributed not only to the prosperity of the city, but has assisted by adding credit for the high standard of its manufactured goods.
In the year 1866 Mr. G. O. Wilson and Mr. Albert Sumner left their homes in Foxboro, Mass., in search of a promising field for establishing the business of renovating straw hats. Without any definite place in view, one city after another was visited, Baltimore being finally their chosen locality. Messrs. Wilson & Sumner associated with them Mr. W. C. Perry, who also came from Foxboro, and the firm was made Sumner & Perry, establishing themselves in the rear of No. 71, now 10 West Lexington street.
Mr. Sumner withdrawing from the firm the same year, the two remaining partners continued the business at the same place as the firm of Wilson & Perry. At that time the retail price of straw hats was such as to allow a profitable business to be done in renovating and altering styles, and in that branch these persons met with success.
Previous to this, however, others had been engaged in the business of bleaching and pressing straw hats. Among the first who entered into the business, as far as can be learned, was the firm of Rosenswig, Davidson & Ash, about the year 1848; they were cap manufacturers, and added the pressing of Leghorn hats as an auxiliary business. Mr. Samuel White, who learned his trade of the previously mentioned firm, afterwards carried on hat bleaching and pressing in connection with cap making, at No. 78 South Charles street (present No. 132). From 1850 to 1865 extensive importations of German straw hats came into the port of Baltimore, and Mr. White did a large business in finishing these goods. In 1857 Mr. White commenced the jobbing hat business, forming in 1861 the firm of White, Rosenburg & Co., and is now in business at No. 9 South Howard street, of the firm of S. White & Son.
Richard Hill, at present in the retail hat business at No. 5 South Liberty street, was formerly engaged in hat bleaching and pressing at the same locality.
Messrs. Wilson & Perry continued to prosper in their enterprise, and, increasing their facilities, gradually developed it into straw goods manufacturing, confining their business for several years almost exclusively with two prominent Baltimore jobbing houses, who supplied sufficient patronage for their constantly increasing production; one of their patrons being Cole, Brigham & Co., the other Armstrong, Cator & Co., one of the largest millinery firms in the country.
In 1877 Messrs. Wilson & Perry purchased the premises No. 101 West Lexington street, now 104, where they secured more commodious quarters, and, with an admirably equipped factory, continued to do a large and prosperous business. Mr. Perry died in 1880. In July, 1887, the firm title of Wilson & Perry was changed, Mr. Wilson associating with M. Frank, J. D. Horner and A. Levering, formed the firm of Wilson, Frank & Horner, and occupied the warehouse No. 204 West Baltimore street, in connection with the factory on Lexington street.
In January, 1875, Isaac H. Francis and James E. Sumner, who had been in the employ of Wilson & Perry, started the straw hat manufacturing business at the N. W. corner of Lexington and Liberty streets, and in the following year Wm. T. Brigham (then of the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co.) became associated with them, the firm being made Francis, Sumner & Co. In 1877 the firm of Cole, Brigham & Co. was dissolved, Mr. Brigham becoming connected with R. D. Hopkins, as the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, occupying the premises No. 128 West Fayette street (present No. 211). In 1880 Mr. Hopkins was admitted as a partner in the firm of Francis, Sumner & Co., and Messrs. Francis and Sumner became members of the firm of Brigham & Hopkins, the interests of the two firms having always, in fact, been identical since they were first established. The two firms were continued until July, 1887, when, by the withdrawal of Mr. Sumner, they were dissolved, and became consolidated as the firm of Brigham, Hopkins & Co., now occupying the large and spacious factory at the corner of German and Paca streets, erected in 1884.
In the year 1880 Messrs. Francis, Sumner & Co. placed their interest in their Lexington and Liberty street factory with Wm. Fales and Jas. M. Hopkins, transferring their own entire business to the enlarged premises at 128 W. Fayette street. Fales & Hopkins continued at the corner of Lexington and Liberty streets until the fall of 1883, when Mr. Hopkins, forced by declining health to give up business, sold his interest to Mr. Louis Oudesluys, the firm becoming Fales & Oudesluys. Mr. James M. Hopkins died of consumption at Colorado Springs, February, 1884.
In 1885 S. C. Townsend and John W. Grace became associated with Messrs. Fales & Oudesluys, and a new firm formed, as Fales, Oudesluys & Co., continuing for two years, when it was dissolved, Messrs. Townsend and Grace remaining as the firm of Townsend, Grace & Co., at 128 W. Fayette street, while Messrs. Fales and Oudesluys formed a new firm, as Fales, Oudesluys & Co., locating at 115 S. Eutaw street. Mr. Fales remained in the latter firm but a few months, when it was again changed to that of Oudesluys Bros., comprised of Louis, Adrian and Eugene Oudesluys, now doing business at 115 S. Eutaw street.
In 1878 Mr. M. S. Levy, who was then a cap maker, commenced the finishing of straw hats, having the hats sewed by others, while he did the finishing and trimming, his place of business being then at the N. E. corner of Sharp and German streets.
With increasing trade, Mr. Levy removed in 1881 to more spacious quarters at Nos. 318 and 320 W. Baltimore street (present numbers 216 and 218), where he commenced the general manufacture of straw hats. In 1883 he took his two sons into partnership, the firm being made M. S. Levy & Sons; their premises being destroyed by fire in October, 1886, they removed to 117 S. Sharp street. In September, 1888, being again the victims of fire, they occupied temporarily the premises N. E. cor. Paca and German streets, remaining there until taking possession of their present extensive factory located at the N. W. cor. of Paca and Lombard streets.
In 1880 Tomz, Richardson & Co. commenced in a small way to manufacture straw hats at No. 341 W. Baltimore street (now 317), but, from lack of business experience, soon abandoned the undertaking.
Messrs. Bateman & Richardson in 1882 embarked in the business, occupying a portion of the premises No. 5 S. Liberty street. In 1883 Mr. Scutch was admitted as a partner, the firm becoming Bateman, Richardson & Co., and, removing to No. 55 St. Paul street (now 313), continued until 1885; not meeting with anticipated success, they gave up the business.
Messrs. Francis O. Cole & Co. in 1882 commenced the manufacture of straw goods, erecting for the purpose a building at Nos. 7 and 9 Saratoga street (now 424 E. Saratoga), continuing business until 1885, when the firm was dissolved.
Mr R. Q. Taylor has long been engaged in the manufacture of Mackinaw straw hats as a specialty. His acquaintance with and interest in this product dates as far back as 1850, when he first used the Mackinaw for his retail trade, since which, every season the "Mackinaw" has been the prominent straw hat sent from his establishment, and for a period of fifteen years was the only article of straw hat retailed by him. The successful control of a special style as an article of fashion for thirty-five consecutive years is a remarkable record, an accomplishment that plainly shows ability as a leader of fashion, for which Mr. Taylor's natural capacity so well fits him.
Mr. Taylor confined the use of the "Mackinaw" hat strictly to his retail demands until after the year 1868, since when he has manufactured the article for the trade, distributing his products over the entire country, and establishing for "Taylor's Mackinaws" a national fame.
In addition to the manufacture of men's and boys' straw hats, which class has heretofore comprised the larger proportion of such goods made in Baltimore, another branch, that of ladies' straw goods, has been developed, and is already assuming interesting proportions, promising to become a valuable addition to this industry.
Messrs. Wolford & Shilburg in 1883 commenced the manufacture of ladies' straw goods at No. 6 E. Pratt street, remaining at that place for one year, removing in 1883 to No. 205 Camden street, where they are now located.
In 1887, Messrs. L. W. Sumner, G .K. Thompson and D. Whitney, as the firm of Sumner, Thompson & Whitney, commenced the manufacture of ladies' and misses' straw goods, locating their factory at 317 N. Howard street.
At the present time there are in Baltimore, apparently in prosperous condition, eight straw hat establishments, giving employment to eleven hundred hands, male and female, and producing annually, manufactured goods to the value of upwards of a million dollars, in the distribution of which Baltimore is brought into close business contact with every State and Territory of the Union, and the city's importance as a manufacturing centre is enhanced by the character of articles sent forth by those engaged in this class of business.
GROWTH OF BUSINESS
No. 14
FOR many years the Mackinaw took precedence of all straw hats as the most desirable summer article for gentlemen's headwear, far out-rivalling in its success as a fashion any other straw product ever introduced to the American people. Having attained this prominent position mainly through its successful management by Baltimore manufacturers, it forms an important factor in the prosperity of the straw hat industry of Baltimore. In fact it is the actual foundation of the present large and increasing straw goods business of the city to-day.
While the Mackinaw hat had previously found favor with a few prominent retailers, it was not until the year 1868 that Mr. W.T. Brigham, then of the firm of Wm. R. Cole & Co., observing the merits of the article, concluded to undertake its introduction to the trade, to whom it was generally quite unknown. Among those who had used profitably the Mackinaw for their retail trade were R.Q. Taylor, of Baltimore, Charles Oakford, W.F. Warburton and Louis Blaylock, of Philadelphia. Though it was an article of domestic production, the beauty and commendable qualities of the Mackinaw were indeed a surprising revelation to the trade at large. Each year added to the popularity of the Mackinaw, until it became the acceptable American straw hat, without which no first-class retailer could consider his stock complete. While the great demand existed, Baltimore continued to supply the larger proportion of all the Mackinaw hats sold, and taking advantage of the reputation thus gained for such goods, her manufacturers produced other kinds of straw hats, and by the exercise of proper care and attention acquired such skill as to secure for the straw goods products of Baltimore the worthy reputation of being the best made in the United States, consequently and beyond contradiction the best in the world.
In the earliest days of straw hat making in Baltimore, at the time when the Mackinaw was being introduced, the sewing of straw hats by machine was a new invention, and practically a close monopoly controlled by a strong combination of wealthy straw goods manufacturers of the North, who, jointly as a stock company, prevented the sale of the straw sewing machines outside their own circle. Fortunately for the success of the new undertaking in Baltimore, the good qualities of the Mackinaw hat were more satisfactorily retained by hand sewing, rendering machines in their manufacture a useless requirement.
Thus an advantage was gained in supplying a hand-sewed hat, embodying such points of perfection in style and finish as to quite surprise those not familiar with the manufacture of such goods. The "Mackinaw" of Baltimore make continued to grow in popular favor until it had secured a greater distribution than was ever before attained by any other article of straw hat, making a remarkable record for tenacity, by holding for upwards of fifteen successive years, popularity as the leading article of summer headwear.
Baltimore continued to enlarge and increase her straw hat factories and improve their products, so that now in this industry she stands in the proud position of being the leading city in the United States in the production of the best class of straw hats.
This, in brief, is a history of another branch of the hat business, which attained large proportions, supplementing the one which, having gained a degree of importance in the manufacturing history of the city, was by force of circumstances reduced to comparative insignificance.
The growth of the straw hat business of Baltimore may be looked upon as somewhat phenomenal. The first introduction of the Mackinaw hat by William R. Cole & Co., in 1867, may be taken as the beginning of straw goods manufacturing, and with but a single manufacturing firm existing in 1875, its development and increase dates from that time. It is doubtful if in 1875 the total value of manufactured straw goods produced in Baltimore reached the sum of $75,000, while in the face of a steady and constant decline in values – the result of labor-saving machines, together with reduced cost of raw material – an increase in production of twenty-fold is an accomplishment of less than fifteen years. This success cannot be attributed to any local advantages, but is due entirely to the energy, enterprise and business qualifications of those engaged in the business, qualifications which have accomplished the result of giving valuable assistance in the city's advancement as an important manufacturing centre. It has also, by the recognized merits of its products, lent a worthy influence throughout the whole United States in sustaining the excellent reputation long enjoyed by Baltimore for the good quality and reliability of its manufactured goods.